To: VWDIESEL@PAS-NT.PAS.ROCHESTER.EDU, vanagon@vanagon.com
  Subject: Injection pump book tip.
  --text follows this line--
  
  I just read through a new edition (1994) of Bosch's "Diesel
  fuel injection" book. I can definitely recommend it. Has a
  good chapter on the basics of the various Diesel designs,
  a chapter on exhaust emmission, and what can be done to lower 
  them and last but not least the latter part of the book is devoted 
  to the VE injection pump in the VW vans and cars.
  
  It's interesting how little the VE pump has changed in the 
  last 25 years. Essentially the same pump was in the first
  VW diesels in the 70's as is in the newest TDI's! In fact
  in  a sense the TDI pump is simpler than the older ones.
  A lot of the mechanics regulating the control sleeve (govenor,
  boost and altitude aneroids) have just been replaced with a
  simple solenoid (and the functions are now computerized.)
  
  The only other substantial change is that the timing advance
  is now both load and speed dependent by means of a small
  solenoid leak valve in the timing regulator. This makes
  the new diesels quieter in normal operation. Max advance
  occurs only at full load. 
  
  Ever wondered how the TDI two stage injection works? It's
  in the injectors, not the pump. The injectors have two 
  springs with two opening pressure settings. The pre-injection
  opens first, the the main injection.
  
  And for those power and speed nuts, Bosch specifies that the
  VE pump (I assume any basic VE) can be tuned up to deliver 25kW/cyl.
  (You supply the air ;-)
  
  /Martin
  --
  Martin Jagersand                 
  Computer Science Department      
  Yale University 
  
          Slow down and visit the VW diesel Westy page:
            WWW: http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw
  -------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  Article 1188 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca!wolfsburg.cs.uoguelph.ca!drew
  From: drew@I_should_put_my_domain_in_etc_NNTP_INEWS_DOMAIN (Andrew MacPherson)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Fuel pump Leaking diesel from?  (Help!)
  Date: 2 Oct 1995 19:21:31 GMT
  Organization: Comp&Comm Services, University of Guelph
  Lines: 46
  Message-ID: <44pe3r$6qs@ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca>
  References: <44nh7j$ppp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
  Reply-To: drew@wolfsburg.cs.uoguelph.ca
  NNTP-Posting-Host: wolfsburg.cs.uoguelph.ca
  X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
  
  The pump in my golf suffered such a leak, which in the end was not the fault of
  the pump, but rather the check valve in the return line to the tank.
  However, I expect that your problem is a leaking timing advance (aka cold start)
  shaft seal, caused simply by old age/low sulfur fuel or whatever.  The fuel
  which leaks from this shaft is residual pump-lubricating fuel, circulated
  through the injection pump housing by the transfer pump.  The vaned transfer
  pump is capable of pressures up to 100 psi, although I don't think that they're
  that high in the VW application...
  At any rate, replacing this seal is not agreat deal of work for those
  experienced in working on Bosch pumps.  It does not involve anything more
  intense than removing and reinstalling cap screws an d a cover plate, if memory
  serves me correctly.  The real challenge is in removing and reinstalling the
  injection pump, and getting it timed correctly.  This job would likely be
  best left to a Bosch shop or a VW shop where they will send the pump out to
  Bosch.  I would expect that most of the cost would be labour to r&r the pump.
  
  Popeye III (popeyeiii@aol.com) wrote:
  : Leaking Diesel!
  
  : Help, My '81 rabbit (manual) has developed a leak on the fuel pump that
  : appears to "come and go" but lately is getting worse (now leaving a "wet
  : spot" after sitting for awhile)  It's NOT the unions on the back of the
  : pump, nor is it the timing plug.  It is not coming from the timing advance
  : lever either.  I think it's coming from the back, and on the bracket that
  : holds the pump there is a slot in the back, there appears to be some type
  : of cam end, or plug that seems to advance/retard depending on the speed of
  : the engine, and is covered with diesel- wipe it off and a few miles later,
  : it's covered again.  Bently's is no help - doesn't even mention this (I
  : assume it's one of the items that's "not repairable" out in the field)
  : Anyone have any idea what it might be?  E-mail would be nice, but I'll be
  : checking both newsgroups (rec.vw, and watercooled group).  
  : Thanks for any assistance - I haven't a clue, and would like to know what
  : I'm up against before I go engine diving.
  
  : Sandpeep@aol.com
  
  --
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  | "Warp factor 3, Mr Sulu."                                             |
  |                  Kirk, on the OS/2 3.0 vs. Windows95 debate           |
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  | Drew MacPherson                                                       |
  | Computing and Communications Services                                 |
  | University of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario, Canada                         |
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  %----------
  Article 75456 of rec.autos.vw:
  Xref: rochester rec.autos.vw:75456 rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:1221
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!nntpa!ssbunews!news
  From: Ian Smith 
  Subject: Re: Help! Diesel won't start.
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
  Message-ID: 
  To: tdennis@cad.gatech.edu
  Sender: news@ssbunews.ih.att.com (Netnews Administration)
  Nntp-Posting-Host: mlws07.mlm.att.com
  Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  Organization: AT&T
  References: <44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu>
  Mime-Version: 1.0
  Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 11:42:50 GMT
  X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (X11; I; SunOS 4.1.3_U1 sun4m)
  X-Url: news:44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu
  Lines: 13
  
  The fuel cutoff solenoid is a good place to start. If you have an ammeter then
  pull the connector off it and measure the current with the ignition switch in
  the running position. (It's the only wire going to the fuel pump underneath. If
  you have no meter then try pulling the connector off and touching it on when
  the power is on. You'll either see small sparks or hear the clunk of the
  solenoid inside, hopefully both if it's working.
  Next favourite is a leak in the fuel line to the pump. This could be air
  getting into the pipe, or through the bleed screw on the fuel filter. Check
  these. If you are brave and a little foolhardy you could take the fuel line off
  and see if you can suck fuel up through the filter!
  If these check out, perhaps your injector pump is failing. Mine has done
  135,000 miles and still pumps fine!
  
  
  
  Article 75490 of rec.autos.vw:
  Xref: rochester rec.autos.vw:75490 rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:1231
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!simtel!col.hp.com!bubba.ucc.okstate.edu!news.ecn.uoknor.edu!news.ysu.edu!malgudi.oar.net!hyperion.wright.edu!alpha.wright.edu!news
  From: DWIGHT DEAN 
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Help! Diesel won't start.
  Date: 3 Oct 1995 17:29:33 GMT
  Organization: Wright State University, Dayton, Ohio 45435
  Lines: 51
  Message-ID: <44rrtt$uep@alpha.wright.edu>
  References: <44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: paladin.wright.edu
  Mime-Version: 1.0
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
  Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (X11; I; SunOS 5.4 sun4d)
  To: tdennis@cad.gatech.edu
  X-URL: news:44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu
  
  When you say that no fuel is being pulled to the engine can mean two different
  problems. One problem is that no fuel is actually reaching the fuel injector
  pump while the other problem is that there is fuel being delivered to the fuel
  injectors from the pump. I assume that the pump is a Bosch unit. 
      Volkswagen Rabbit diesels do not have a fuel pump like a gasoline car does.
  The injector pump primes itself constantly while the car is running. If there
  are any holes or leaks in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the pump, air
  can get in and ruin the prime , thus no fuel to the pump. The fuel filter
  housing fittings can be lose or the fuel filter itself may be lose. On the top
  of the fuel filter housing there is usually a bleed screw that allows the
  filter to be drained while each filter has drain screw on the bottom of the
  filter. These can allow air to enter the line and the fuel can drain back into
  the tank. Check to see if there is fuel in the filter by unscrewing the top(To
  engine)  fitting. It should be full. If not, there may be a leak somewhere in
  the fuel system. The fuel filter may be clogged after a tank full of bad fuel .
  By the way the filter should be change every 15-20k miles. Personally I have
  had some problems with the some fuel in the filter draining back into the tank
  with good lines that were not clamped well enough, thus very hard starting. If
  all is fine with the filter, start checking the injector pump out. First check
  out the fuel line between the filter and the pump for any leaks. The injector
  pump return line(the top one with the little hose connect to it) fitting should
  be removed. You should be able to see the fuel level at the top of the injector
  pump. If not, prime the fuel pump with very clean fuel and wait overnight. If
  the pump leaks down a lot then the pump shaft seal is leaking badly. You can
  tell if there is fuel leaking down the timimg belt side of the engine. This
  means that the pump will loss it prime and thus not start the next morning. 
      If there still is fuel reaching the pump and no fuel reaching the fuel
  injectors(with the injector pump primed and the injector fittings losened
  one-quarter turn, you crank the engine over and no fuel comes out), then it
  could be one of two problems- the pump has worn out(and lacked power before it
  quit) or the fuel injector pump solenoid is not working. The solenoid
  physically turns on and off the fuel flow inside of the pump. This allows for
  the diesel to be turned off (gas cars turn off power to the ignition). The
  solenoid looks like somewhat a oil pressure unit but with a threaded bolt
  coming from the center and the solenoid is screwed into the top of the injector
  pump housing and replace as a unit. It is located near the throtle linkage side
  of the injector pump, just below the linkage. A thick wire(black on my '81
  Rabbits) should be bolted to it with a 7 or 8 mm nut. Make sure no other wires
  or the linkage is touching the nut. First check to see if the wire is live when
  the ignition is on the run position. If it is live, move the wire around to see
  if there are any breaks. I believe there is a fuse marked fuel pump for this is
  there is no current. If there are no problems here then touch the wire to the
  solenoid post(The solenoid has a lot of current going thru it, so careful).
  There sure be a clicking noise from the solenoid when the contact is made. You
  may also try jumping the solenoid directly from the battery + with a pair of
  allegator clips and see of the solenoid will click or the fuel is going to the
  injectors. If   all of this fails, then the solenoid is bad. You can spend a
  small fortune and order one( for 100's $???,and the wait, a week??) from a
  local VW dealer or VW shop. Or you can test one out on a junkyard /parting-out
  car and save a great deal of time and money.
  
  
  
  Article 75697 of rec.autos.vw:
  Xref: rochester rec.autos.vw:75697 rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:1325
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
  From: jettaiiile@aol.com (JettaIIILE)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Help! Diesel won't start.
  Date: 5 Oct 1995 16:32:57 -0400
  Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
  Lines: 8
  Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
  Message-ID: <451fdp$qq6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
  References: <44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu>
  Reply-To: jettaiiile@aol.com (JettaIIILE)
  NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
  
  California changed the formulation of diesel gas last year by taking out
  the sulphur for emissions reasons.  I know of two cars where the seals in
  the pump failed shortly after the change.  One was an 81 and the other an
  82.  Both cars leaked pretty good and then finally stopped leaking and
  wouldn't start.  Unfortunately it was the end for both of those cars
  because of the high cost ($600) or rebuilding that pump.
  
  Anthony
  
  
  Article 75743 of rec.autos.vw:
  Xref: rochester rec.autos.vw:75743 rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:1345
  Path: rochester!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!news!meyer
  From: meyer@news.an.hp.com (Andreas Meyer)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Help! Diesel won't start.
  Date: 6 Oct 1995 12:08:59 GMT
  Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company
  Lines: 16
  Distribution: world
  Message-ID: <45368r$fet@hpscit.sc.hp.com>
  References: <44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: hpanls.an.hp.com
  
  In article <44p331$i8e@gypsy.cad.gatech.edu>, daemon slayer  writes:
  |> ie... I understand that there is a fuel shutoff solenoid? Can that be
  |> checked/replaced without taking out the whole pump?
  Yes, there is a way to test this. The way to test it is as follows: turn on the
  ignition key to the point where the glow plug light comes on, go under the
  hood and unscrew the nut that holds the wire to the solenoid. The solenoid
  is located on the pump and kind of looks like the top of a lawnmower spark
  plug. Once you remove that wire touch the solenoid. You should hear some
  clicking sounds. If you don't hear anything you may want to bench test it.
  Also make sure your glow plugs are working. This is the most likely cause
  for your car not starting and don't forget to check the fuse for the plugs 
  and the relay.
  
  Good luck,
  
  Andreas
  
  ------------------------
  
  Article 1230 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Path: rochester!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!jobone!eccdb1.pms.ford.com!fiesta.srl.ford.com!pt9201.ped.pto.ford.com!pt9545.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb
  From: millerb@pt9545.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Fuel pump Leaking diesel from?  (Help!)
  Date: 3 Oct 1995 16:42:05 GMT
  Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics
  Lines: 30
  Message-ID: <44rp4t$s7n@pt9201.ped.pto.ford.com>
  References: <44nh7j$ppp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
  Reply-To: millerb@ACM.org
  NNTP-Posting-Host: pt9545.ped.pto.ford.com
  X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
  
  Popeye III (popeyeiii@aol.com) appears to have written:
  >Leaking Diesel!
  
  >Help, My '81 rabbit (manual) has developed a leak on the fuel pump that
  >appears to "come and go" but lately is getting worse (now leaving a "wet
  >spot" after sitting for awhile)  It's NOT the unions on the back of the
  >pump, nor is it the timing plug.  It is not coming from the timing advance
  >lever either.  I think it's coming from the back, and on the bracket that
  >holds the pump there is a slot in the back, there appears to be some type
  >of cam end, or plug that seems to advance/retard depending on the speed of
  >the engine, and is covered with diesel- wipe it off and a few miles later,
  >it's covered again.  Bently's is no help - doesn't even mention this (I
  
  The main shaft on the pump is lubricated by fuel and does not
  sit in a bearing.  As a result of overtensioning the timing belt,
  or merely high milage, the main shaft opening will wear eccentric
  (egg shaped) and fuel begins to leak out.  You may also notice a
  loss of prime due to air entering the system when the fuel is lost.
  
  The shaft sits on an aluminium babbit and the only recourse is to 
  replace the front cover of the pump with parts from a failed pump
  or to replace it altogether.  Bosch has always been very reluctant
  to provide parts or schematics for their diesel fuel pumps.
  
  Parts Place, in Pontiac, MI offers used pumps at a reasonable price.
  Rapid Parts may also.
  
  Lets us know what you determine the cause of the leak to be.
  
  Bryan
  
  -----------
  
  
  Article 1344 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Path: rochester!udel!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!cn992
  From: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Subject: Re: Diesel problems
  Message-ID: 
  Sender: cn992@freenet2.carleton.ca (Dent Harrison)
  Reply-To: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
  References:  
  Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 11:37:47 GMT
  Lines: 80
  
  
  peter frank kovago (kovago@hubble.sheridanc.on.ca) writes:
  > I need help.
  > I drive a '90 turbo diesel Jetta.
  > the engine only has 17000km on it so it is not a age problem
  > A couple of weeks ago I was driving on the highway and I thought I would 
  > give the car a run (burn some of that carbon out).  The car refused to go 
  > over 120km/h.  With the pedal floored the speed would sometimes even drop 
  > the road was flat so it was not a hill causing this problem.  Then on the 
  > off ramp I stepped off the accelerater and on the clutch then the engine 
  > stalled.  Its a brand new air filter so it's not being starved for air.
  > It stalls on me when ever the rpm drops suddenly.
  > 
  > Any ideas
  > Thanks in advance
  > Pete
  >  
  Without knowing where you are, and what service the car has received, it 
  is a little difficult to advise you.  Did the problem start suddenly, or has
  it been building gradually?  Diesels only stall becauce of lack of fuel (or
  air but since there are no obstructions, this is usually not the case.) I would
  begin by checking the fuel filter.  If you received a bad batch of fuel (with
  water), it may be plugged.  If this is a Canadian spec Jetta, drain the 
  water separator in front of the right rear wheel.  Look to see if there is 
  water in the fluid that comes out.  You should see a murky brown liquid 
  at the bottom of the fuel.  Drain at least 1 litre.   If this is the case,
  replace the fuel filter.
  
  If the filter checks out, look through the clear fuel line leading to the 
  injection pump from the filter.  Is there bubbles visisble in the line?  If
  so, you have a leak in one of the fuel lines, anywhere between the tank,
  the water separator, the fuel filter, and the injection pump.  If none of these
  have been touched during maintenance, I do not think you will find any 
  problems here, with the exception of the joint between the clear line and 
  the rubber line. Those are the main causes of low power and stalling 
  related to fuel system.
  
  There are mechanical problems which can also contribute to the problem.
  Has the timing of the fuel pump been checked, along with the timing of
  the camshaft.  At 170,000km, you are due for a timing belt change, if that
  has not already been done.  I would infer from you comments that this car
  spend alot of time in the city, rather than regular highway use.  In either
  case, at this milage, one or more injectors have probably failed, causing
  a significant power loss.  They should be removed and tested using a test
  stand.  If any have failed, replace all 4 at once.  It is a little expensive,
  but will save you from opening the fuel system later on again for the 
  same problem.  At 170,000 km, the fuel pump should be suspected, but not for
  total failure.  There are all sorts of small needle valves which are known
  to gum-up and not work.  Internal seals may also have failed if you have 
  been using an alcohol-based fuel conditioner.  These can only be checked
  by a Bosch Diesel Injection service centre.  The pump has to be removed
  from the car and mounted on their calibration bench and completed tested for
  governor response, fuel flow and pressure delivery, etc.
  
  I have a 1990 Jetta Turbo-Diesel, with 256,000 km, 4360 hours, and have had 
  the fuel pump recalibrated at 120,000 km intervals, to coincide with timing
  belt changes.  The injectors were rebuilt at 220,000 km when it became
  difficult to start the car below 0degC.  The car would start, but idle was
  very rough and smokey until the car warmed up.  Our family also has a 1988
  Jetta GL Turbo-Diesel which operates solely in the city, with only 94,000 km.
  The injectors were just replaced, two had failed due to errosion on the 
  injector face, creating a poor spray pattern, and slight loss of power.
  When the pump was put on the test bench, it was found to be in good shape,
  but we use STANADYNE Performace Formula fuel conditioner to maintain
  pump cleanliness.  We have also had experience with bad fuel on our 
  1988 Jetta Diesel, 298,000 km.  Water got into the fuel, and made it passed
  the water separator into the fuel filter.  As soon as the temperature 
  dropped below 0degC, the filter froze and the car would not run.  Before
  this, there had been a noticeable loss of power.
  
  I hope this helps.  Please e-mail me if you would like more suggestions.
  
  Good luck!
  
  
  
  --
  Dent Harrison, P.Eng.
  Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
  cn992@freenet.carleton.ca
  
  ----------------
  
  Article 1359 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Path: rochester!udel!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!cn992
  From: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Subject: Re: Just bought a Diesel Rabbit Pickup - Need Advice!
  Message-ID: 
  Sender: cn992@freenet3.carleton.ca (Dent Harrison)
  Reply-To: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
  References: <442lp0$n4d@kryten.awinc.com> <4458m4$7ur@newsbf02.news.aol.com>  <453mak$gi6@pt9201.ped.pto.ford.com>
  Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 19:44:28 GMT
  Lines: 61
  
  
  Bryan Miller (millerb@pt9544.ped.pto.ford.com) writes:
   
  > 
  >>And get it done by the dealer unless you have *ALL* the tools as listed in
  >>Bentley, otherwise the timing will be hopelessly screwed up and you will be
  >>into the dealership anyway.
  > 
  > This assumes, of course, that the dealership mechanic is not
  > stupider than you.  All the tools in the world don't make common
  > sense.  Having said all that (I did?!?) I must admit to having 
  > done all my own belts and not having much trouble - except the
  > first one ;-)  The trick is not to move things around much between
  > belts.  It gets more dicey when you do an entire engine rebuild
  > and everything has been removed.
  > 
  > cheers,
  > Bryan
  
  The point of having all the tools and taking the time to do the job
  right is to restore the engine back to perfect spec.  If you "just
  leave things as they are" then you are not restoring the system, and
  are just adding to the general decline of the engine.  I do not use
  any garages because I like to set the timing *exactly* to spec, not
  just within the tolerances allowed as garages will do.  The difference
  between these is my timing will stay in-spec for 150,000 km until the 
  next belt change, rather than having to have it checked when fuel 
  economy declines, or there is trouble starting the car in the deep 
  cold.  It just enhances the reliability of the system to the point
  where it is something that can be forgotten until the next scheduled
  maintenance interval.
  
  Buying all the tools is cheap compared to the cost of having a dealer
  do the job, even if you get all the tools from Snap-On.  In addition,
  if you get the belt gauge from VW, and use it properly, the only reason
  a timing belt will break is due to material deffect.  When I bought my
  tools, it was going to take three timing belt changes to pay for them 
  all, at the 1990 shop rates.  Well rates have increased 50% since then
  making the tools pay for themselves.  Since I maintain three cars, one
  belt change each payed all the tools off.  If this isn't enough reason,
  a simple calculation will show that getting 5% better fuel economy by
  maintaining injection timing will add to the payoff of the tools.
  
  As for rebuilding engines, I would be surprised if I ever wear one out.
  VW America, Industrial Division, estimates the service life of the 1.6L
  Diesel and Turbo-Diesel at 10,000 hours.  At this point, I have 
  4360 hours on my 256,000km 1990 Jetta TD.  By the time the car reaches
  588,000 km in the year 2003, I doubt it will be practical or even legal 
  to bother rebuilding the engine.  By the way, 10,000 hours is to the 
  first rebuild.  So if you don't make it that far, it is not the 
  fault of the engine or the design, but how it was used and maintained,
  and proper injection timing is crucial to both.
  
  
  Cheers,
  
  
  --
  Dent Harrison, P.Eng.
  Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
  cn992@freenet.carleton.ca
  
  -----------
  
  Article 76133 of rec.autos.vw:
  Path: rochester!casaba.srv.cs.cmu.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in2.uu.net!news.erinet.com!ragnarok.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!hyperion.wright.edu!alpha.wright.edu!news
  From: DWIGHT DEAN 
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
  Subject: Tips for Diesel Starting Problems
  Date: 11 Oct 1995 22:48:19 GMT
  Organization: Wright State University, Dayton, Ohio 45435
  Lines: 37
  Message-ID: <45hhjj$n3p@alpha.wright.edu>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: paladin.wright.edu
  Mime-Version: 1.0
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
  Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (X11; I; SunOS 5.4 sun4d)
  To: s003dmd
  X-URL: news:rec.autos.vw
  
  One thing that anyone should keep in mind while working on a diesel is that if
  the injector pump is ever ran out of fuel for any reason that the pump must be
  reprimed and the air bleed out of the injector lines. Otherwise the motor will
  not start until the pump and injectors line are full of fuel. The VW Rabbit
  fuel injector pump along with the injectors is the entire fuel system on the
  car. They have a self-contained fuel pump which sucks the fuel up from the
  tank. If for any reason there is not enough fuel in the system, it should be
  bleed and reprimed as follows:
  
  (1) Loosen the big fuel return hose on top of the injector pump. 
  (2) Loosen the hose between the fuel filter and the fuel pump. If you have the
  clear plastic line instead of rubber this can be tricky. I have replaced the
  original hoses with a rubber hose that can withstand diesel fuel okay. 
  (3) Next, loosen the top union  on the fuel filter housing and fill the filter
  up with diesel if needed. Remember that only clean diesel fuel should be used.
  (4) You need to find some way of pouring fuel into the fuel line from the fuel
  filter. I use a 2 gallon gas can with vent that fits into the fuel line.
  (5) Pour the fuel until you diesel coming out of the fuel return union on top
  of the fuel injector pump. It may take a while for this to happen. 
  (6) You must loosen the fuel injector line unions that go to the top of the
  injectors. They should be loosened only 1/4 of a turn. This will allow you to
  bleed the air out of the fuel lines.
  (7) Replace the hoses previously removed and the union on the fuel filter. 
  (8) You should make sure the you do not use the glow plugs when you try to turn
  the engine over. If a helper is watching to see when fuel is leaking from the
  fuel injector unions, be warned that sometimes the fuel can spray very far, so
  did not get too close to the loose unions. 
  (9) Crank the engine until fuel is leaking from ALL of the injector lines. You
  probably will have to crank for a while so stop after ten seconds or so and let
  the starter cool down. Fuel is leaking from the loose injector union, you can
  tighten it up. You may also have to reprime the system after a few tries.
  (10) If you just ran out of fuel it should start up quickly. If the car has sat
  then it may be hard to start even in the middle of summer. When all of the
  injectors unions are leaking ,tighten the unions back up and try to start the
  car using the glow plugs. Good Luck and remember that the fuel pump may need to
  be reprimed again but the injector lines did not need to be bleed again.
  
  
  --------
  
  Article 1774 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!swen.emba.uvm.edu!moose.uvm.edu!apotter
  From: apotter@moose.uvm.edu (Alexandra S. Potter)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Tip for the Day :Diesel owners
  Date: 18 Oct 1995 15:20:45 GMT
  Organization: EMBA Computer Facility, The University of Vermont
  Lines: 18
  Distribution: world
  Message-ID: <46360g$ia6@swen.emba.uvm.edu>
  References: <45pq42$ig7@guava.epix.net>  <45tnu9$b43@hpscit.sc.hp.com>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: moose.uvm.edu
  X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
  
  : Hmmmm, that is not what my owners manual says. In it they even recommend to
  : mix diesel with gas (I forgot the ratio but it was pretty high) in really
  : cold winter months. Never done it because I've never had a problem with fuel
  : gelling, but it's right there in the manual. One thing they do stress though
  : is to NEVER use high octane fuel but to always use regular unleaded if using
  : gas.
  
  Andreas - You are correct - it does say to do that, just don't do it.  A
  little Kerosene is OK.  Good gasoline resists ignition under heat since
  you only want it to burn when the spark ignites it.  This is not a
  desirable quality to have in diesel fuel.  Gas will keep your fuel from
  gelling, but it will also cause hard starting, low power, poor mileage,
  and it isn't very good for the fuel injection system since it can't
  lubricate very well.  I really have no idea why they put that in the 
  manual, but it really isn't a good idea.
  
  - Mac 
  
  -----------
  
  Subject: Re: Tip for the Day :Diesel owners
  Message-ID: 
  Sender: cn992@freenet2.carleton.ca (Dent Harrison)
  Reply-To: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
  References: <45pq42$ig7@guava.epix.net>  <45tnu9$b43@hpscit.sc.hp.com> <46360g$ia6@swen.emba.uvm.edu>
  Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 19:30:27 GMT
  Lines: 35
  
  
  Alexandra S. Potter (apotter@moose.uvm.edu) writes:
  > : Hmmmm, that is not what my owners manual says. In it they even recommend to
  > : mix diesel with gas (I forgot the ratio but it was pretty high) in really
  > : cold winter months. Never done it because I've never had a problem with fuel
  > : gelling, but it's right there in the manual. One thing they do stress though
  > : is to NEVER use high octane fuel but to always use regular unleaded if using
  > : gas.
  > 
  > Andreas - You are correct - it does say to do that, just don't do it.  A
  > little Kerosene is OK.  Good gasoline resists ignition under heat since
  > you only want it to burn when the spark ignites it.  This is not a
  > desirable quality to have in diesel fuel.  Gas will keep your fuel from
  > gelling, but it will also cause hard starting, low power, poor mileage,
  > and it isn't very good for the fuel injection system since it can't
  > lubricate very well.  I really have no idea why they put that in the 
  > manual, but it really isn't a good idea.
  > 
  > - Mac 
  > 
  It was put in there to do exactly what is says, to stop fuel from waxing.  If
  you live in a northern climate, buy No.1 Diesel in the winter.  There is
  absolutely no reason to use gasoline or kerosene today.  The use of gas or
  diesel will shorten the life of everything.  Back in the good old days,
  to save costs (or so they thought) it was general practice to mix gas with
  diesel instead of buying the (then) much more expensive winterized fuel.
  A car built post 1980 has no reason to require gasoline or kerosene in the
  fuel.  My Mercedes manual contains the same advice, but carries the caution
  that extended use will cause engine damage. (1976)
  
  
  --
  Dent Harrison, P.Eng.
  Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
  cn992@freenet.carleton.ca
  
  ------------
  
  From: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Subject: Re: Tip for the Day :Diesel owners
  Message-ID: 
  Sender: cn992@freenet2.carleton.ca (Dent Harrison)
  Reply-To: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
  References: <45pq42$ig7@guava.epix.net>    <466md6$c5f@pt9201.ped.pto.ford.com>
  Date: Fri, 20 Oct 1995 11:55:14 GMT
  Lines: 38
  
  
  Bryan Miller (millerb@pt9531.ped.pto.ford.com) writes:
  > Dent Harrison (cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA) appears to have written:
  >>I don't know either.  There is alot of misinformation out there, and most
  >>people equate a diesel as a diesel as a diesel.  What is good for a 50hp
  >>tractor is not good for a VW diesel.  The VW pumps are a rotary design and
  >>are more subject to wear if poor quality fuel is used, and the fuel filter
  >>is not maintained religiously.  If these conditions are met, then there is
  > 
  > I'm not sure I understand the full logic of the fuel filter maint.
  > Won't the filter become clogged before harmful particles are let
  > through the element.  If a filter has a pore size of x microns
  > won't the filter become more restrictive than x microns as it
  > becomes loaded?
  > 
  > I replace my fuel filter about every 10K miles.  This question
  > has come to mind quite often though.  The fuel system doesn't
  > have a pressure relief valve like the lubraction system does.
  > 
  > 
  When the filter becomes clogged, its efficiency at stopping particles 
  increases up to the point where nothing gets through, not even fuel.  
  There is no pressure relief valve because there is not pressure.  The
  injection pump draws fuel from the tank and through the filter, so 
  everything is under vacuum.  The problem with diesel filters is the
  growth of bacteria from water suspended in the fuel and fowling the filter.
  As the filter plugs up, it becomes increasing difficult for the vane
  pump to draw the required fuel, producing cavitation in the pump, and
  causing pump damage if taken to extreme.  Given the clearances and
  costs of repairing an injection pump and injectors, change the filter
  at the recommended intervals, or earlier if you want, and you will not
  have any fuel/dirt/water related problems.
  
  
  --
  Dent Harrison, P.Eng.
  Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
  cn992@freenet.carleton.ca
  
  ---------
  
  Subject: Re: No diesel fuel in line
  Message-ID: 
  Sender: cn992@freenet2.carleton.ca (Dent Harrison)
  Reply-To: cn992@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dent Harrison)
  Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
  References:  <472tuo$1un@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
  Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 19:49:21 GMT
  Lines: 40
  
  
  Ahlmon1961 (ahlmon1961@aol.com) writes:
  > I recently discovered the lack of fuel in filter and line to pump.  I
  > started and ran this vehicle about three weeks ago and everything was ok. 
  > What would cause the apparent drain back from the filter/pump?  And how to
  > get fuel flowing back through the lines?  Is there a pump from tank to
  > main injection punp on this 79 model?  The mechanic did not think there
  > was one?  Has anyone ever heard of filing filter with transmission fluid
  > and injector pump also in order to prime , how is this done correctly?
  
  What is the problem?  Does the car not start, or is difficult to start now?
  Fuel will naturally drain back from the filter and pump to the fuel tank if
  there is an small air leak in the fuel lines.  Otherwise the fuel will stay 
  there.  The fuel filters always look like they are empty when you open them up,
  but this is nothing to worry about if the car starts and runs smoothly.
  No, there is no pump in the fuel tank or any where else.  The injection 
  pump is self priming and does both the low and high pressure pumping.  A
  plugged releif valve in the fuel tank can also cause fuel to drain back.
  Remove the fuel tank cap after driving the car and see if there is a vacuum
  in the tank.  You will hear air rushing in as you open the cap.  When the
  car is not running, it is hard to tell whether there is fuel in the clear
  fuel line or not.
  
  As for priming, why you would want to dump transmission fluid in there I 
  don't know.  Diesel works just as well.  You can prime the filter and the
  pump just by cranking the engine.  You could pour diesel fuel directly
  into the filter.  I use a vacuum pump to draw fuel through the filter.  When
  I have removed the pump for recalibration, I prime the pump by placing the
  vacuum pump on the fuel overflow line coming from the pump and prime 
  until I have a steady flow of fuel coming out.  The engine then starts first
  try, after about 30 seconds, the time it takes to purge the fuel injectors
  and high press. fuel pipes.  Otherwise you crank until the battery is 
  almost exhausted (in 30 second tries) to get it going.
  
  Hope this helps,
  
  --
  Dent Harrison, P.Eng.
  Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
  cn992@freenet.carleton.ca
  
  ----------
  
  Article 2684 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!newsfeed.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!psgrain!rainrgnews0!pacifier!news
  From: precious@pacifier.com (Don Clarke)
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Help, Diesel pump is leaking badly!
  Date: Fri, 03 Nov 1995 19:41:46 GMT
  Organization: Pacifier BBS, Vancouver, Wa.  ((360) 693-0325)
  Lines: 26
  Message-ID: <47dr72$gd7@news.pacifier.com>
  References: <44rh8o$164@hpscit.sc.hp.com> <46ekoq$8dn@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <46ood1$rj1@swen.emba.uvm.edu>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: ip72.van3.pacifier.com
  X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
  
  apotter@moose.uvm.edu (Alexandra S. Potter) wrote:
  
  >You don't have to have the pump "rebuilt" to fix the leaks.  All you need 
  >are new seals - probably $150 tops for seals and calibration if you take 
  >the pump out yourself.
  
  >- Mac
  
  >JettaIIILE (jettaiiile@aol.com) wrote:
  >: Both my sisters and best friend's Jetta (82) and Golf (81) suffered a
  >: similar fate because of the reformulation of diesel gas in California.
  >: (Sulphur was removed for emissions reasons.)  It's not a do-it-yourself
  >: job because of the expensive diesel fuel pump calibration tool required. 
  >: The pump rebuild is also quite expensive.
  
  >: Anthony
  
  If the shaft seal is leaking, then carefully remove the seal.
  Get the number from the seal and go to your local bearing supply
  company and have it cross-referenced.
  The last time I had to do this it was about a three dollar shot.
  Don't even have to pull the pump, just the belt and pulley.
  Forget trying to get it at VW.
  
  Don Clarke
  
  ----------Article 53474 of rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled:
  Path: rochester!cornellcs!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
  From: lbaird119@aol.com
  Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
  Subject: Re: Diesel Cold-Start
  Date: 29 Jan 1997 08:49:08 GMT
  Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
  Lines: 22
  Message-ID: <19970129084901.DAA26047@ladder01.news.aol.com>
  References: <01bc0d87$015931e0$0fef5f80@AJaker.u.washington.edu>
  NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
  X-Admin: news@aol.com
  X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader
  
       Jake, I want your Rabbit!  My final upgrade will be to move my turbo
  from my Dasher to my Rabbit then add intercooler YES!!
       Anyway, my expansion on engine surging.  Apparently if the pump
  mounting bolt(s) is/are loose the pump can *wobble* enough to change
  timing.  It jumps back and forth causing a subtle change that can be felt
  under a, basicaly, light load situation.  The first bolt to check is the
  one *clamping* bolt at the rear of the pump.  It sits low, under the
  injector lines.  Next make sure the 3 at the front of the pump are snug. 
  Then ,BY ALL MEANS, check the 4 bolts that hold the front (aka passenger
  side, on rabbit and jetta) injector mounting plate to the front of the
  engine.  They are 8mm allen head bolts.  While you're at it there ar 2
  more hiding beneath the pump (13mm hex).  Dad bought a NICE '81 pu for a
  good price that had the allen bolts get loose.  Not trying to scare you.
  It's just worth looking at if you have a noticable surge or lope.
    Loren
  
  '80 Rabbit diesel                              '85 4000 Quattro
  '80 Dasher turbo diesel (BAE)           '83 GMC van 6.2 (for work)
  '83 Audi 5000 TD                              '72 914's and '71 911
  
  P.S.  anybody have an ex. manifold for rabbit or jetta turbo diesel,
  possibly even an intake too? 
  
  ---------------
  From: LBAIRD119@AOL.COM
  To: VW-DIESEL
  Subject: Re: Altitude compensator??
  Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 01:07:58 GMT
  
  In a message dated 98-01-25 21:56:06 EST, you write:
  
  << Since the new fuel system has got the altitude compensator, that sounds
   like the better of the two.  It might also have Load-dependant timing,
   upgraded injector nozzles, etc.  But mixing pumps, lines of different ID /
   length, and injectors with different part numbers is a no-no since they are
   often designed to work as a system.
    >>
     I did a little checking and found something interesting.  There are
  three different injector nozzles for the VW diesels.  One for the 1.5L,
  one for the 1.6 up to 86 and one for 86 and later.  Those include TD's.
  The Vanagon does use a different injector assy. than a Rabbit/Jetta.
  It must use different pressures then.  Since all other TD's use the same
  assy (with 86 as a break point) and all 1.6 non TD's use the same assy.
  (again with the 86 thing).  Wonder what pressures they are set to?
     If he were to change pump/line combination then he could, to be safe,
  (not to imply any danger otherwise) use the delivery valves that go with
  the lines (the fittings on the back of the pump).  Providing the lines are
  actually different length and not just shape.  To switch them *could*
  cause different running or consumption characteristics, or not.  :)
       Loren
  ----------