Subject: FAQ: Hand Tools

From: [email-masked] (Ken Smith)
Date: 1 May 1995 16:02:56 GMT

Last Updated: Sun Mar 19 02:11:46 EST 1995

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

	 0) What do I need to know before I start with Hand Tools?
	 1) General Information on Wood.
	 2) What Hand Tools do I need?
	 3) What Hand Tools would be nice to have?
	 4) What other Hand Tools are out there?
	 5) Should I buy Hand Tools new or used?
	 6) Where do I get new Hand Tools?
	 7) Where do I get used Hand Tools?
	 8) How do I sharpen chisels, plane blades, etc?
	 9) How do I sharpen saw blades?
	10) General Information on planes.
	11) General Information on scrapers.
	12) General Information on saws.
	13) General Information on chisels.
	14) General Information on Japanese Woodworking Tools.
	19) Collecting old tools.
	20) What books can I get to learn more?
	21) What magazines are oriented towards hand tools?
	22) Tidbits
	23) Tool Collecting Organizations

	Note: I am only the editor of this FAQ.  A *small* part of the
	information contained here comes from me.  The majority of it
	comes from books and from previous traffic on rec.woodworking.
	The entire section on Japanese Woodworking Tools comes from Dave
	Burnard.  The rest of the sections come from many contributors.
	I apologize for not keeping track of who contributed what information
	so proper acknowledgements could be made...

0) What do I need to know before I start with Hand Tools?

	For some people the choice between hand tools and machinery is
	something of a religious war.  Most sensible people realize that
	there is more than one way to skin a cat and to each his own.
	If you agree with that then there is no Right Answer to the
	question of whether hand tools are better than machinery, it all
	depends on the person.  GROSSLY oversimplifying, hand tools tend
	to be less expensive, quieter, generate less saw dust (often in
	favor of wood shavings...), and take longer to use for a given
	task (especially for cases where there is a lot of repetition
	since often the major time consuming factor in using a machine is
	setup time).  THERE WILL ALWAYS BE EXCEPTIONS TO THE ABOVE (hence
	the religious war attitude some folks have).  It is hard to say
	whether you will find using a hand tool easier than using a machine,
	this is different for everyone.  Some people pick up the skills
	needed for machines faster than for hand tools, for others it's
	the opposite.  Using hand tools versus using machines doesn't have
	to be an either/or proposition.  It is possible to mix the two.

	If you decide to start using hand tools for stock preparation or
	large shaping tasks you will quickly realize you need a good bench.
	Speaking from personal experience a WorkMate (TM) won't cut it if
	you're trying to use bench planes to prepare rough-sawn lumber.
	Good benches can be bought or made, see the books section for a
	reference.

	Another thing you will quickly find necessary is a means to sharpen
	the tools.  Sharpening will be covered later.  You will probably
	need a set of sharpening stones.  If you're fixing up old tools
	you may also need a bench grinder.

	If you're a klutz like me seriously consider keeping your Tetanus
	shots up to date.  You need a booster shot every 10 years.  This
	is especially true if you decide to give fixing up old/unusable
	tools a try...  If you cut yourself with something rusty you run
	a risk if getting Tetanus (Lock Jaw).  I'm told just cutting
	yourself won't give you Tetanus but increases your risk of getting
	it - I'm not sure but will try to find out.

1) General Information on Wood.
	Wood is not a material designed for humans to build things with.
	Wood is a material designed to provide life functions for a living
	organism, namely a tree.  This (seemingly obvious) fact is often
	forgotten by novice woodworkers, and this fact causes many problems
	that woodworkers need to be aware of.

	To begin with a grossly over-simplified model, think of wood as
	being made up of groups of tubes held together with glue named
	"Lignin".  The circular ends of the tubes are what would be called
	"end grain", while the sides of the tubes would be "edge grain".  It
	is much easier to break apart the tubes parallel to the tubes
	themselves (i.e. breaking the lignin holding the tubes together) than
	it is to break through perpendicular to the tubes.  Keep this very
	simplistic model in mind when you are working with the wood and
	you should be able to avoid some problems.  For example when
	trying to plane the end of a board (end grain) you can't run the
	plane across the whole end of the board because when you reach
	the end of the stroke it is likely the wood will split off on
	the far edge of the board because the lignin holding the tubes
	together is relatively weak and the tubes along the edge of the
	board will break away rather than be cut by the plane blade.  You
	need to stop the stroke well short of the far edge and do a second
	stroke towards the center from that other edge.  When using a chisel
	with the blade parallel to the grain there is a tendency for the wood
	to split apart very easily, it is best to first make a cut with the
	chisel perpendicular to the grain at the point you want the cut to
	stop (this is known as a "stop cut") before working the chisel parallel
	to the grain.

	To understand things like "tearout" better we need to complicate our
	simple model a bit.  Now picture wood as being made up of tubes
	and lignin as before but now the tubes aren't straight.  They are
	wavy, with some meeting the surface of the board at an angle.  If
	you push a plane "with the grain", meaning along the tubes starting
	where a given tube is below the surface towards where the tube
	meets the surface, then any splitting that happens will be harmlessly
	up towards the surface.  If you plane against the grain then any
	splitting will occur down into the board, causing "tearout" (little
	holes in the surface where wood has been torn away).  These little
	patches of tearout will be noticable.  Power planers and jointers
	will also cause tearout if used against the grain.

	Wood will expand and contract (people usually call this "wood
	movement") with changes in humidity because of water absorption.
	Our tubes generally don't change in length but will get thicker
	and thinner.  Thus the wood will expand and contract in the directions
	(note that's plural) perpendicular to the direction of the grain as
	humidity changes.  If you do not take this into account when designing
	a piece of furniture then the piece may split or break apart due to
	seasonal changes in humidity.  It is usually "cross-grain" joints,
	where the grain (tubes) is running one direction in one of the pieces
	to be joined and a different direction in the other piece, that this
	is a problem.  Since wood is much stronger with the grain than across
	the grain (easier to separate the tubes than to break through them)
	you need to design pieces in such a way that the grain is running in
	the direction of the load.  But this goal often results in
	cross-grain joints.  It is usually OK to glue a cross-grain joint that
	is up to 3 or 4 inches wide (some people say a bit more than this,
	some people a bit less...) without too much risk because the change
	in overall width for that narrow a section is small but for a larger
	width the change in overall width will be larger.  Joints wider
	than this you run the risk of having the joint self-destruct over
	time.  Note that the simplistic model of the tubes getting thicker
	and thinner is much too simplistic.  Real wood will expand and
	contract more tangentially to the annual growth rings than it
	does radially.  Explaining this any better requires pictures
	not possible with ASCII characters, it is best to find a good
	book (see Hoadley's, Korn's, or Frid's books in the section about
	books).  This difference in tangential versus radial movement
	is why "quarter sawn" wood is better for some applications than
	"flat sawn".  Again, explaining this requires pictures so see the
	above books.

	When gluing wood the end grain will tend to allow glue to be drawn
	away from the joint (into the tubes).  There is also evidence
	suggesting that the strength of a glue bond is mostly from molecular
	attraction between the glue and the wood.  End grain has relatively
	little wood material (the plastic of the tubes) and lots of air space.
	These two factors mean that glue joints involving end grain are very
	weak and need to be avoided.  Try to have as much edge grain as
	possible in a joint.  Modern woodworking glues, if used properly
	(meaning use a thin layer of glue on edge grain), are stronger than
	lignin so the wood around a properly glued joint will fail before the
	joint itself.

2) What Hand Tools do I need?

	Below is a starter's kit grouped by tool types.  Get tools in the
	various groups as needed for projects.  See the following sections
	for more information about the various tools and their use.

		- paring chisels either bought one at a time as needed for
		  projects or a set 1/4" through 1" in 1/4" increments
		- morticing chisels either one at a time or a set, start
		  with 1/4" and then 3/8"
		- mallet for striking morticing chisels
		- rip saw (4-6 pt)
		- crosscut saw (7-9 pt)
		- backsaw (15-25 pt)
		- dovetail saw
		- coping saw
		- block plane
		- #4 smoothing plane
		- #5 jack plane
		- #7 jointer plane
		- rebate plane (e.g. Record 778)
		- bit brace and auger bit set (1/4" to 1")
		- hand drill and brad point bits (1/16" to 1/2")
		- scraper, bastard mill file and burnisher
		- screwdrivers
	In addition general-purpose marking tools you will find useful:
		- measuring tape
		- steel rule or folding "zig-zag" rule
		- trysquare and/or combination square (protractor head on
		  the combination square is optional but nice)
		- scratch awl or marking knife
		- marking guage
		- sliding bevel guage
	Misc. stuff:
		- workbench is very important
		- toolbox (first project you build)
		- bench hook (second project, or maybe first and used to help
		  build toolbox)
		- shoot board

3) What Hand Tools would be nice to have?
		- bow saw (many people like these better than the traditional
		  rip and crosscut saws; they are harder to find but you can
		  make one yourself)
		- #71 router plane
		- drawknife
		- spokeshave

4) What other Hand Tools are out there?

5) Should I buy Hand Tools new or used?

	Most of the Hand Tool Gurus will tell you ``They just don't make
	them like they used to''.  Planes and chisels in particular seem
	to be in wide abundance in the second-hand tool markets.  Older
	Stanley planes seem to be the most often recommended for beginners
	who plan to work with them as opposed to collecting them.
	Ergonomics, as much as it's in style today, is often a reason
	to get the used tools.  Handles of older saws are often more
	comfortable, likewise for planes.  The fact is tool designers
	of old used the tools themselves, while current tool designers
	tend to be most interested in how to make a tool for the least
	amount of money and won't actually use the tool themselves.

6) Where do I get new Hand Tools?

	You can start off looking in the local hardware stores or home
	centers but be careful.  This type store in some places will have
	some reasonable quality hand tools.  In other places this type store
	will only carry junk (new Stanley tools for the Do It Yourself-er
	types and stuff like that).  Also see the separate Address FAQ posting.

		American Machine & Tool Co. (AMT)
		Fourth Ave. and Spring Street
		Royersford, PA, 19468-2519
		Phone: (215) 948-0400
		Notes:	Primarily importer of run-of-the-mill Taiwanese
			power tools, marginal supply of hand tools.

		Constantines
		2050 Eastchester Rd.
		Bronx, NY, 10461
		Phone: (800) 223-8087
		FAX: (800) 253-WOOD
		Notes:	No direct experience.

		Footprint Tools
		33 Dorman Avenue
		San Francisco, CA, 94124
		Phone: 1-415-920-7068
		Notes:  No direct experience.

		Garrett Wade
		161 Avenue of the Americas
		New York, NY, 10013-1299
		Phone: (800) 221-2942
		Notes:	Best supplier of new hand tools I've found, at least
			in US; catalog well worth looking at for the info it
			contains.  Slightly expensive but not too bad.

		Highland Hardware
		1045 N Highland Ave. NE
		Dept F  Atlanta GA 30306
		Phone: (800) 241-6748
		Notes: No direct experience.

		Lee Valley Tools
		P.O. Box 6295, Stn. J
		Ottawa, Ontario K2A 1T4
		Phone: (800) 267-8767
		FAX: (800) 668-1807
		Notes:	No direct experience.

		Leichtung Workshops
		4944 Commerce Parkway
		Cleveland, OH 44128
		Phone: (800) 321-6840
		FAX: (216) 464-6764 Fax
		Notes:	No direct experience.

		Lie Nielsen Toolworks
		Route 1
		Warren, ME, 04864
		Phone: (800) 327-2520 (outside Maine)
		Phone: (207) 273-2520 (inside Maine)

		Trend-lines
		375 Beacham St.
		Chelsea, MA 02150
		Phone: (800) 767-9999
		FAX: (617) 889-2072
		Notes:	Good selection of power tools, marginal selection of
			hand tools but if they have what you're looking for
			odds are they've got the best price (and will match
			if not).  Can be a hassle to deal with on occasion.

		Woodcraft
		210 Wood County Industrial Park
		PO Box 1686
		Parkersburg, WV 26102-1686
		Phone: (800) 225-1153
		Notes:	No direct experience.

		The Woodworker's Store
		21801 Industrial Blvd.
		Rogers, MN 55374-9514
		Phone: (612) 428-3200
		FAX: (612) 428-8668
		Notes:	Not the best source of hand tools but not the worst.
			Decent prices, regional walk-in stores, good selection
			of hardware like knobs, hinges, etc.

		Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico 
		Woodworker's Supply of Wyoming
		1108 North Glenn Rd.
		Casper, Wyoming 82601
		Phone: (800) 645-9292
		FAX: (307) 577-5272
		Notes:	No direct experience.

		Woodworking Unlimited
		3931 Image Dr.
		Dayton, OH 45414-2591
		Phone: (800) 543-7586
		FAX: (800) 722-3965
		Notes:	No direct experience.

7) Where do I get used Hand Tools?

	This depends on what condition you're looking for.  If you are
	looking for tools that are an absolute bargain and you are interested
	in fixing them up to make them usable then it's hard to beat the
	local Flea Markets, garage sales, etc.  As an example I picked up
	a Stanley #4 smoothing plane at the local flea market for $7 that
	would cost $35 or so at a second-hand tool dealer in usable condition.
	It was unusable in its current condition (rust, blade severely nicked,
	etc.) but it had all the parts and after a couple hours of work it was
	ready to use.  Chisels are in wide abundance and cheap but you'll need
	to sharpen them and probably remove some rust.

	If you want usable second-hand tools you may be able to find a store
	locally that handles them.  A few sources I know of are :

		Patrick Leach
		224 Whitney Rd.
		Ashby, MA, 01431
		Phone: (508) 386-2436
		email: [email-masked]

		Lee Richmond
		12640 Magna Carta Rd.
		Herndon, VA, 22071
		Phone: (703) 391-0074
		email: [email-masked]

		Anthony Seo
		300 River Drive
		York Haven, PA, 17370
		Phone: (717) 266-3281 (Home, Evenings)
		       (717) 763-5772 (Work)
		email: [email-masked]

		Mark Williams
		Classic Tools
		3084 Fireside Dr.
		San Jose, CA 95128 4006
		Phone: (408) 985-8099
		email:[email-masked]

8) How do I sharpen chisels, plane blades, etc?

	The following works for me and others I know.  There are lots
	of other alternatives, some explained later in this section, but
	what follows seems to be a relatively cheap workable sharpening
	setup.  A set of Japanese Waterstones including 800 grit, 1200 grit,
	and 6000 grit stones can be used for sharpening.  Keep the 800 and
	1200 grit stones in a tupperware container full of water.  Water
	is needed to lubricate and help the cutting action.  Also keep a
	squirt-bottle of water handy to add water as needed while using the
	stones.  Sharpening chisels and plane blades is roughly the same.
	Start with the back of the blade or chisel (the long face of the
	blade that meets the edge you're sharpening) to make sure it's flat.
	Then work on the bevel.  Use the 800 grit waterstone until the
	edge is straight and nick-free.  Then shift to the 1200 grit stone
	to remove the scratches left by the 800 grit stone leaving finer
	scratches, and finally polish with the 6000 grit stone.  At this point
	the back and bevel faces should be mirror smooth.  Some final polishing
	can be done with a cloth wheel or a leather strop.  Simple
	aluminum housings can be bought to mount cloth wheels on, just
	add a small electric motor to drive it.  Be careful with a strop or
	the cloth wheels - it is possible to round over the edge.

	Waterstones require fairly frequent lapping to keep them flat.
	This can be done on a sheet of plate glass with some 120 grit
	wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper stuck to it.

	There are a variety of ``honing guides'' you can get that help
	hold chisels and plane blades while sharpening.  Personally I
	find them useful for plane blades but not chisels. The bevel on plane
	blades is so small I find it difficult to keep flat while sharpening
	but the bevel on chisels is wide enough I can sharpen those free-hand.
	Some people swear by oil stones rather than waterstones.  You need
	a special oil instead of water for lubrication of these stones.
	One argument for them is that water may lead to rust.  On the other
	hand the oil may be a bit messier.  Diamond stones are also available
	which also use water for lubrication.  They are more expensive but
	do not require any lapping (and can be used to lap waterstones if
	you choose to mix the two - there is no reason you must stick to
	strictly one type of sharpening stone but you are best off sticking
	to one type of lubrication so don't mix oil stones with water stones).
	The "grits" of different stone types are in different units.  The
	"US grits" are different than "Japanese grits".

	If a blade is heavily nicked a bench grinder will save you a lot of
	time getting the nicks out.  It is VERY easy to overheat the blade
	on a bench grinder.  Keep a cup of water close by to dip the blade
	in regularly.  Special "white wheels" are available for grinders
	that will lessen the chance of overheating the blade.

9) How do I sharpen saw blades?

	HOW TO SHARPEN WESTERN PANEL SAWS

	If you have had trouble cutting with a hand saw, it was probably dull.
	Hand saws work best when kept well-sharpened -- and they are easy to
	sharpen. It will probably take you less time to sharpen one than to
	drive it to and from a sharpening shop, so give it a try.

	In Praise of Older Saws

	Better old hand saws are made of superb steel; they have comfortable and
	beautiful handles, superior to the rough ones on saws today.  You will
	get a lot of satisfaction from restoring one of these old timers and
	keeping it sharp yourself.  Best of all, a great older saw can be
	bought for much less than a new saw.  

	Look for names like Disston and Superior on the saw nuts.  Avoid saws
	with bent or pitted blades or broken handles.  Other names to look for
	are Simonds, Atkins, Bishop, and Spear&Jackson.

	TOOLS for Saw Sharpening:  Saw file and vice

	The saw file has three equal faces, an equialteral triangle in
	cross section.  Any hardware store will have them.
	
	You need something to hold your saw while you file it.  Called a saw
	vice, this is just a vice with a very wide pair of jaws.  You can make
	one from two scraps of plywood, a hinge to hold them together, and
	some rubber to face the plywood with so the process is quieter.  Clamp
	the saw vice in your bench vice.
	
	Old saw vices are around used, but they are becoming harder to find
	and really don't work any better than the wood vice you can make.  

	THE SHARPENING PROCESS

	Basically you just file each tooth the same amount, in the same
	direction the old tooth was filed.  Rip saws are usually sharpened
	with all teeth chisel cut, not skewed to the blade.  Crosscut saws
	have each alternating tooth skewed to the blade, by about 15 degrees.  
	
	Every few sharpenings you will want to "set" the teeth as explained
	below, and once every life time you may need to "joint" it, also
	explained below.

	Jointing the Saw (optional)

	Start with teeth that are roughly the same height.  If they are, skip
	this step.

	If the saw has been sharpened a lot, sometimes a dip or bump in the
	height of the teeth develops, which should be corrected by "jointing"
	the saw.  Jointing is done by simply filing the tops of the teeth
	level with an ordinary smooth file, held in a little guide to keep it
	perpendicular to the blade.  Then proceed to set the teeth and sharpen
	them.

	Setting the teeth (Optional)

	The teeth on panel saws are set alternately, that is each tooth is bent 
	slightly away from the plane of the blade with a tool called a "saw set"
	or a hammer and anvil.  This set makes the kerf wider than the blade
	so the saw can move through the cut freely.

	You won't need to set the teeth every time you sharpen, but if the saw
	is clean and binds in the cut, it's probably time to set it.

	I'll assume you have a saw set which allows you to dial the amount of 
	set based on the tooth pitch (4,5,6,...).  Once adjusted for the pitch,
	the saw set is used to bend every other tooth one direction, the saw is
	reversed in the vice and the remaining unset teeth are set.  
	
	Don't buy a new saw set; they are very common on the used tool market
	and cost much less than new ones.

	FILING the TEETH

	The goal here is to take off just enough metal to put an edge on the
	tooth.  Two to four strokes per tooth should do it.  Use the same file
	and the same number of strokes on each tooth.  When sharp, the teeth
	lose the shiny flat on the tip, and have just an edge.
	
	As I mentioned, crosscut saws have angled teeth, while rip saws have 
	chisel cut teeth.  For rip saws, the file is perpendicular to the blade.

	For crosscuts, follow the angle on your saw teeth now.  It is usually
	skewed about 15 degrees from perpendicular for crosscuts, and slightly
	pointed on the outer edge of the tooth.  Hold the saw file at a
	consistent angle, sloped a little and skewed a little to match the
	angle of the existing teeth. It should take less than an hour to
	sharpen your saw.
	
	Try your newly sharpened saw and you will be amazed at the difference
	in effort and quality of cut you can make with a sharper saw.  
	
10) General Information on planes.

	The most common advice for beginners about getting planes seems to
	be get some of the older Stanley metal bench planes (also known as
	Bailey planes in respect to the person who first patented this style
	plane, Leonard Bailey).  These can be bought at virtually any used tool
	dealer.  If you opt for new planes Record makes planes that are "OK",
	they will need some tuning.  Avoid the junk at Sears or the new
	Stanley's in your typical Home Center.  If you are looking for a really
	good new plane Tom Lie-Nielsen makes some very good but relatively
	expensive planes.

	There is a huge variety of planes available for different tasks, we'll
	just cover the basics here.

	The Stanley #5 plane (aka the Jack plane) is considered the "workhorse"
	plane.  For example it is what you would probably use to begin working
	a rough-sawn board, taking off the saw marks and beginning to make
	it flat.  It is also what would be used for a lot of shaping tasks
	like chamfering an edge, etc.  The Stanley #4 plane is known as a
	smoothing plane.  It would typically be used to make the final passes
	on the board after the board has been flattened.  The Stanley #7
	plane is a jointer plane.  It would be used to "joint an edge" which
	means make edges flat and ready to glue two boards together.  It can
	also be used in surface preparation to help making large boards
	flat.  The last plane in common use is the small block plane, which
	is used to do small shaping tasks, plane end grain, etc.

	The main difference between the larger bench planes (#4, #5 and #7)
	is the length of the sole.  The smoothing planes are generally about
	9 to 10 inches long, jack planes about 14 inches long, and the
	jointers run about 22 inches long.

	If you get a used plane, and even if you get a brand new plane,
	it is likely to need some tuning.  I've bought an old badly rusted
	Stanley #4 plane at a local flea market and made it usable so I'll
	describe what I did to it, incorporating extra information gained
	from books and rec.woodworking postings.  If you're starting off
	with a plane in better shape than my lump of rust you should be
	able to skip various steps in this.

	Start by taking the whole plane apart.  Brush off as much of the gunk
	as you can, then scrub off the parts with a brush (old toothbrush
	worked great - NOT a stiff wire brush because that will leave
	scratches) and mineral spirits.  This should clean up pretty much
	everything but heavy rust.  Some WD-40 and synthetic wool will get
	rust off, as will Naval Jelly.  Pay special attention to cleaning up
	where the plane's cast body meets the frog (cast part that holds the
	blade, lateral adjustment lever, depth knob, etc.).  With the plane
	cleaned reassemble the whole thing.  Put the blade in but set the
	depth so the blade is not sticking out of the bottom.  Now set up
	a lapping table.  This is a large-ish chunk of plate glass with
	220 grit (rougher if your plane's sole is in really bad shape) wet/dry
	cloth attached to the glass with spray adhesive.  Use the lapping
	table to flatten the sole of the plane.  If you need the sides to be
	perfectly perpendicular to the sole (this is needed for a planing
	technique called "shooting") then use something long-ish with a good
	right angle on it as a guide to flatten the sides as well.  Some people
	recommend using a tool bed for a lapping table.  If you've got a
	jointer you may find it perfect for this.  Personally I'm afraid to
	use the spray adhesive on my jointer bed and I don't like the idea
	of having metal dust around my jointer but this doesn't bother some
	people.  Finally sharpen the blade and adjust it (and if necessary
	the frog).  Check to make sure the chip breaker meets the blade
	perfectly along the whole width of the blade, file the chip breaker's
	edge flat if necessary.

11) General Information on scrapers.

	I have no personal experience with scrapers yet.  The following is
	posts from other folks.

	Tage Frid did a long article on scrapers in Fine WoodWorking
	that was reprinted in the hardcover version FWW #1.  [I also found
	it in "Fine WoodWorking on Hand Tools" in softcover]  The article
	includes pictures of each step that make the whole thing a lot
	easier to understand.  I made notes for myself, intending to pick
	up one at Lee Valley on Vancouver on my next trip over.  As Tage
	Frid says "since most people buy only one or two blades in a
	lifetime, it is a good investment to buy the best" which he says
	is the Sandvik #475.

	Sharpening involves 3 steps: filing, honing, burnishing.  He does
	all four edges each time, repeating only when all 4 edges are
	dull.

	Filing squares the edge to the side.  Scraper in vise, file in
	hands, fingers below, thumbs above, sliding lengthwise with
	scraper between fingers, few long even strokes.

	Honing smooths the edge (still square), but involves two
	different stones.  Honing part 1, with scraper still in vise,
	medium wet dry carborundum stone in both hands on edge, thumbs
	on top, finges on bottom, sliding lengthwise with scraper between
	fingers, to remove roughness left by file.  Honing part 2, with
	scraper still in vise, using Belgian clay water-stone (with water),
	held flat but moved at a  slight angle to prevent a groove.  This
	will be a problem for most people, since Belgian water-stones do not
	exactly abound these days.  When edge very smooth, wipe stone along
	face to remove any burr.

	Burnishing takes place with the scraper lying flat on the
	bench, with edge extending 1" over the side of the bench, all
	scraper edges oiled.  With back of chisel, held almost vertical
	(85 degrees) draw it back and forth a few times with light
	pressure until a fine burr forms (check with light finger tip
	pressure).  Some have suggested that (lots) more than light
	pressure is required.

	Reburnishing, required when scrapings turn to dust rather than
	fine shavings, is done with scraper flat on the bench, honing
	oil, chisel back applied to remove the burr, then hone again.  If
	this does not work (after 4 or 5 times), start again from the
	file.

12) General Information on saws.

13) General Information on chisels.

	The "They don't make 'em like they used to" sentiment seems strong
	in the chisel area.  Chisels available new these days don't tend to
	sharpen as well or hold a sharp edge for as long as the older chisels.
	Manufacturers have tradeoffs to decide on when deciding how to
	"temper" the blades of the chisels.  The metal can be made harder
	which generally lets it sharpen better and hold a sharp edge better.
	However this makes it more brittle so if you use the chisel to pry
	off paint can lids and things like that it will chip.  Manufacturers
	are catering to the weekend warriors more these days so they're
	not tempering the blades as hard as they used to.

	You can do your own heat-treating of chisels if you want to harden
	the steel yourself.  See Michael Dunbar's book for a description
	of how to do the heat treating.  Most new chisels will also require
	some or all of the sharpening procedure above before you can seriously
	use them - it is rare to find chisels that don't need the backs
	lapped and the edge resharpened.

	There are two dominant chisel types.  The paring chisels have
	a bevel down both sides of the blade as well as along the cutting
	end.  Morticing chisels have square sides.  Poor pictures of the
	ends of the chisels are:

                         ------                         ---------
                        /       \                       |       |
                        ----------                      ---------
                        paring                          morticing

	The paring chisels are usually used for general shaping and cutting
	tasks.  Morticing chisels are used to, you guessed it, chop out
	mortices.  The square sides of the morticing chisels help keep the
	mortice square.  There are also some special-purpose chisels.  One
	example is the "crank-neck" chisels which have a curve in the shaft
	of the blade before it meets the handle so that the flat portion
	of the blade can be kept flat on the wood surface even for large
	pieces of wood (regular chisels the handle gets in the way).

	If you are buying new chisels the general consensus seems to be
	that Marples Blue Chip chisels are a decent chisel for a reasonable
	price.  Robert Sorby used to make good chisels but the feeling is
	that they have dropped in quality recently.  Henry Taylor chisels
	seem to be the preferred chisel but they're more expensive than
	Marples and harder to find.  High quality Japanese chisels seem to
	be the best of the chisels as far as quality of the steel used
	but these tend to be very expensive.

	Sometimes you will need something to hit paring chisels with while
	using them (if you can do what you want with hand pressure you're
	best off not hitting the chisel with anything but there are times
	when it is necessary...) and you will definitely need something to
	hit morticing chisels with. DO NOT use a normal claw hammer.  Wooden
	mallets with either large flat faces or round faces are available
	for using with chisels, you are best off getting one of those.  I
	prefer the round mallet because you don't need to pay attention to
	its orientation when you're striking the chisel and my attention
	is usually focused on the blade of the chisel.

14) General Information on Japanese Woodworking Tools.

	What's all the fuss about?
	Over the past 20 years many American woodworkers have discovered that
	there are alternative woodworking traditions and tools available in
	the modern world.  Many Japanese handtools available today (saws,
	chisels, hammers, planes, etc.) are still made in the traditional
	manner, by hand -- a master blacksmith with his one or two
	apprentices, a charcoal fire, an ancient anvil...

	Japanese hand tools are often distinctly different from their western
	counterparts. Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke, planes are pulled
	towards you instead of pushed away. Often these differences yield
	advantages over their western counterparts, other times they are
	simply evidence of a different tradition.

	Japanese plane blades and chisels are made from laminated steel (a
	hard tool steel for the cutting edge, and a softer steel, often
	wrought iron, for the remainder of the blade). The tool steels used
	in these tools is of a higher quality, and will hold a better edge
	than just about anything else made today.  Western tools used to be
	made this way, or at least using higher quality steels, but the
	"home handyman" mentality of most western tool manufacturers forces
	us to seek out our grandfathers tools at auctions and flea markets.

	The first step: Try a Japanese saw!
	The next time you have a few dovetails to cut, or a tenon to saw,
	buy a good replaceable blade saw (~$25, see sources below). For
	furniture sized work a 210mm (8") ryoba (ree-o-bah), which means
	two teeth, offers the highest utility (since it has rip teeth on one
	side and crosscut teeth on the other).

	The other common saw people start with is a "dovetail dozuki", a
	dozuki is equivalent to a western back saw, and can be purchased with
	either crosscut, rip, or thorn-style teeth (for dovetails). Dozuki
	saws have very little set to their teeth so they leave a very smooth
	cut. Either version is available for $25-30 (replaceable blade).

	By the way, the replaceable blades saws, are really very good. In my
	experience you would have to buy a very fine handmade saw ($100-200) to
	reliably find a better saw. Don't think of it like a disposeable
	razor, the reason the blades are replaceable is because with 18-28
	crosscut teeth per inch, they are rather difficult to sharpen. (The
	only time I've ever had to replace a blade was when it was
	inadvertently used one to prune a tree, and the closing kerf put a
	kink in the blade.) They will stay sharp a long time.

	Taking the next step: Mastering your Tools
	To really appreciate fine Japanese tools (or their western
	counterparts), you need to really appreciate your current tools. I
	don't want to sound elitist, but if you are happy sharpening your
	chisels with 600 grit sandpaper on a piece of glass, then read no
	further. Why, because you just won't notice much of a difference.
	However, if you enjoy keeping a razor edge on your tools, and can
	appreciate the difference between a sharp blade and a really sharp
	blade, then read on.

	Chisels. (Nomi)
	After acquiring the saws above, the next step is to get a chisel or two.
	Japanese chisels are made from high quality tool steel, that is only
	tempered down to RC63-65 (as compared to RC58-62 for modern western
	chisels), and more importantly, will take and hold a better edge.
	Chisels come in metric sizes that correspond nicely (just slightly
	undersize) to fractional inches. Just say 3mm = 1/8" and multiply
	away... Common sizes are 1.5,3,6,9,12,15, 18,24,30,36. While they are
	available in sets (usually 9 or 10), one can start with a couple of
	common sizes and add as necessary. I recommend something in the 12mm
	(1/2") to 24mm (1") range until your sharpening skills adjust (note:
	sharpening jigs don't grip japanese chisels or plane blades very well).

	Chisels are made from laminated steel, and will have one or more
	hollows on the back of the chisel to facilitate easily flattening
	the hard steel back (contrary to many popular misconceptions about
	why the hollows are there).

	Planes. (Kanna)
	Japanese planes are nothing like the Bailey style plane most
	woodworkers are familiar with. Japanese planes are instead much closer
	in design to the legendary Norris style planes of yore.  Japanese
	planes are very simply constructed: a tapered metal blade inserted
	into custom fitted wooden block, with a chip breaker wedged under a
	metal pin inserted through the block. The blade position is adjusted
	by tapping the blade and block with a small hammer. No fancy adjustment
	levers, no moveable frogs, no corrugated soles. The design focuses on
	the simple, yet crucial, aspects of successful planing: A flat sole
	with a narrow throat opening, a solid and well supported blade, a keen
	cutting edge, and a close fitting chipbreaker. One must spend some
	time adjusting the wooden soles, with heavy use and seasonal humidity
	changes, but the results are well worth the effort.  I often use my
	Bailey-style planes when rough planing or jointing, but then
	switch to my Japanese planes for smoothing, or whenever I encounter
	difficult grain patterns.

	Smoothing planes are commonly available in sizes ranging from 24mm (1")
	up to 70mm (~3") in width. The smaller sizes are for more specialized
	use, while the larger (>60mm) smoothing planes are difficult to learn
	on.  I recommend something in the 42-54mm range as a first plane. You
	can find very nice planes of this size in the $70-$120 price range. A
	wide variety of specialty planes are also available (chamfers, rebates,
	groove, sliding dovetail, H&R's, etc.)

	JAPANESE WATERSTONES:

	Stone Selection: Most people recommend a 1000/6000 pair. But if you are
	using Japanese planes or chisels (or older laminated western chisels),
	the jump from 1000 to 6000 may be too large to achieve the best edge.
	Most modern western tools use a softer steel (58-60 on the Rockwell
	scale compared to 63-65) which is easier to sharpen.  On the harder
	steels, it will take a lot of polishing to get out the scratches left
	by the 1000 grit stone, and while the bevel may look like a mirror,
	the edge may not be as sharp as it could be. Unfortunately there
	aren't many types of stones in between 1000 and 6000 grit. The choices
	are: 1) use a 1200 instead, or 2) try a 3-4000 grit polishing stone
	before going to the 6000, 3) use a 1500 or 2000 as a middle stone
	(Japan Woodworker now sells both) or 4) Get yourself either a natural
	"Ocean Blue" or "Mountain Blue" middle stone which is equivalent to
	about 2000-2500 grit. Unfortunately these stones are "mined", not
	manufactured and last I heard the underwater "Ocean Blue" mine was
	closed and the "Mountain Blue" mine was nearly so. Last time I asked
	(Early 1994), Hida had just gotten a few of the "Mountain Blue"
	variety. Many of the "Ocean Blue" stones left on the market, if there
	are any at all now, are of low quality and tend to "disintegrate" into
	smaller randomly shaped chunks. Ask about the quality if you find one.
	(A friend just traded a $800 set of chisels for a really nice one.)

	Remember just because they are called "waterstones" doesn't mean you
	need to leave them all in a bucket of water. The general rule is as
	follows: 1) Never leave a NATURAL stone of any grit soaking. They tend
	to disintegrate. Just sprinkle enough water on the stone to keep the
	surface nice and moist. 2) Never leave a manmade stone over 1500 grit
	soaking in water, again just use enough water to keep the surface wet.
	Your mileage may vary. Some of the newer natural finishing stones may
	work OK in the water bucket, I haven't felt the need to find out.  I
	do leave my manmade 220, 600, 800, and 1200 grit stones in a bucket of
	water.

	Flattening Your Stones:
	Don't forget to flatten your stones regularly, the "red" King brand
	800-1200 stones wear especially fast. I prefer the Bester brand ceramic
	stones (white or yellowish), which are composed of small ceramic bits
	(unlike the fused ceramic stones that claim to "never wear out"). I
	use a piece of 1/4" glass with a piece of sandpaper on top, and just
	rub the stone on the sandpaper.

	Nagura Stones: Nagura stones are NOT used to flatten other stones, they
	are used to enhance the sharpening characteristics of waterstones.
	They are actually very helpful, but your mileage will depend on the
	type of stone you are using it with, as well as the hardness of the
	steel you are working with.  On inexpensive "Western" chisels (sears
	or stanley) the steel is "relatively" soft and I find the nagura
	doesn't help much on any stone. With the extremely hard steel found in
	Japanese chisels, and in some of the finer or older western steels,
	using the nagura to create a bit of paste on the waterstone can really
	help.  When sharpening, if the tool slips or chirps across the stone,
	try a little nagura. Some natural polishing stones are very hard, and
	really need the nagura to cut smoothly. (Other stones can contain
	impurities that can leave tiny scratches on the blade, the nagura is
	used to "knock down" these impurities to prevent the scratches.)

	My Choices:
	I'm fortunate enough to have both blue stones, and they work extremely
	well.  The Ocean stone is rather hard, while the mountain stone is
	softer. If such stones are either no longer available (likely) or too
	expensive (also likely), then I think I'd opt for the 2000 as a middle
	stone. My current stone collection includes 220, 600, 800, 1200 (the
	workhorse), ocean blue, mountain blue, 6000, 8000 and several natural
	polishing stones. I also have several different types of nagura stones
	to play with, since some work better on different stones. When
	sharpening a chisel or plane blade I usually start on the 1200 unless
	there are big problems, then move to one of the blue middle stones,
	and then finish up on the 6000 or 8000, or one of the natural stones,
	depending on the quality of the tool (no sense polishing a $3 chisel
	on a $200 natural waterstone). I tend to use a nagura with the middle
	and polishing stones (different naguras though), but sometimes I use
	with on the 1200 as well. I don't really like my 6000 grit S1 stone
	very much, it seems very "soft".  I received the 8000 G1 stone
	recently as a gift, and it works much much better than the 6000. As
	a result the 6000 has been relegated to sharpening small chisels and
	other tools that can easily damage a polishing stone.

	ADVANCED STUFF: SHARPENING "HOLLOW BACKED" PLANES & CHISELS
	 
	Japanese plane and chisel blades are hollow on the back side. In fact
	higher quality chisels often have multiple hollows. I'm a terrible
	ascii artist so netters who haven't seen this before will just have
	to look in a tool catalog.  The hollow serves a very simple purpose.
	The steel used for the cutting edge is SO hard (Rockwell 63-65) that
	flattening the back would take forever, unless you "scooped out the
	middle" leaving only the edges to flatten. Sounds great until you
	sharpen down to the where the hollow starts. Then what? The story
	diverges here for chisels and plane blades, they are handled
	differently.

	Plane blades:
	Unfortunatley, you can't just re-flatten the back (as you can on a
	chisel), is that the blade needs to fit rather precisely into a
	groove in the planes block, reflattening the blade would destroy
	this fit. (Of course, it's fine to just touch up the back on your
	fine stones to remove the "wire edge", from sharpening the bevel side.)

	Instead you need to "tap out" the blade to "restore the land", where
	"land" refers to the flattened part of the back of the blade between
	the cutting edge and the hollow. You know, the part you just ran out
	of. As Mr. Odate recommends you simply "hit the plane blade with a
	hammer" until you create some more flat part. Scared the hell out of
	me when I first read that!  At least, until I saw someone do it, and
	tried it myself a few times. I've done it dozens of times since without
	any problems. I even started with a piece of a larger blade with no
	flat part on the sides at all(!), and tapped it into shape.

	First of all, realize that you don't have to do this very often. Plane
	blades and chisels come with 1/8 - 1/4" of land to begin with and
	unless you hit a nail or something to take a serious nick this should
	last through several years of heavy use. Then you perform this process
	once in a while to reestablish 1/32 - 1/16" or so of the land.

	How to do it. 
	First off you use a SMALL hammer and you "tap". I use a 3 or 4oz hammer
	with a small point on one end (like a nail or saw setting hammer). You
	also need a hunk of iron or steel (like a small anvil), I have a piece
	of 3" round mild steel about 5" tall. Holding the back of the blade
	against the corner or edge of the "anvil" you tap the hammer into the
	soft iron of the blade all along the front (near the cutting edge) of
	the blade. I can't remember if Odate's book shows this very well,
	again I learned by watching someone who had been doing it for years.
	The hammer will leave little marks in the soft iron, and actually
	deforms it and the hard steel so that the tip of the blade bends over
	slightly toward the back. A few quick passes on a sharpening stone and
	presto, you've got some land! Don't hit the hard steel of the cutting
	edge with the hammer, it may chip, especially if you hit very close to
	the cutting edge.

	After you've been sharpening and occasionally tapping out you're
	favorite blade for many, many years it will eventually get pretty
	stubby and you will be really deforming the hard steel to keep some
	"land" on the blade. If trouble ever occurs, this is when it happens.
	Your favorite blade, the one you use on birdseye and quilted maple and
	other difficult jobs, finally gives in and breaks.

	Still with me...Okay, On to chisels.
	Chisels are simpler because you sharpen them differently. On plane
	blades you don't flatten the back very often, only when you tap out,
	or if a big nick has distorted the back.  With chisels you typically
	need to flatten the back more often because they endure more abuse by
	being hammered all the time. But don't do it unless it really needs
	it. Anyway, because you end up flattening the back more often, you
	tend to wear away the bottom of the chisel a bit and the hollow
	naturally recedes away from the cutting edge. If this doesn't happen
	naturally you can either "tap out" the chisel as described above or be
	a bit more agressive in flattening the back. If you are too aggressive
	in flattening the back the hollows will be gone while the chisel is
	still young and the hard steel may become too thin and be more
	susceptible to breaking. I've heard inexperienced users describe this
	problem (Wow, it was hard work grinding off those darn hollows!). If
	you tend toward this end of the scale, you'll need to ease up on
	flattening and "tap out" some instead.

	I tend to do a bit of both. If I distort the back of a chisel somehow,
	sometimes I'll just tap it out until it's pretty flat again before
	going to the stone. Otherwise I simply flatten the back on a stone,
	when it needs it.  It seems to be balancing out pretty well so far
	(5 years on these chisels)...

	RECOMMENDED READING:

	"Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use",
	Toshio, Odate, 1984, The Taunton Press, CN.
	(The best overall source of tool and usage information, some do
	question Odate's depth of knowledge, but this is far and away the best
	English language book available.)

	"Japanese Woodworking: A Handbook of Japanese Tool Use & Woodworking
	Techniques", Hideo Sato (translated from Japanese), 1987, Cloudburst
	Press. WA (Good information on tools, excellent source for tool use
	and construction techniques.)

	"Japanese Woodworking Tools: Selection, Care and Use",
	Henry Lanz, 1985, Sterling Publishing Co., NY.
	(Viewed from a westerners perspective)

	"SHOJI - How to design build and install Japanese Screens",
	Jay van Arsdale, Kodansha International, NY.
	(Excellent general tool overview, plus shoji making. Jay teaches
	the highly recommended workshops at Hida and Japan Woodworker, listed
	below.)

	"The Way of the Carpenter",
	William. H. Coaldrake, 1990, Weatherhill, Inc. NY.
	(History of Japanese woodworking tools and traditions. An excellent
	explanation of how the Japanese tradition evolved toward the tools we
	see today.)

	TOOL SOURCES:

	Almost every mail order tool catalog these days advertises some
	Japanese tools (usually replaceable blade saws and a few chisels).
	Don't bother. Most of this stuff is of very poor quality. The
	businesses listed below are very reputable, and they understand what
	they are selling.

	Hida Tool & Hardware  (Catalog, Workshops)
	1333 San Pablo Ave.
	Berkeley, CA  94702
	(510)-524-3700
	(800)-443-5512

	The Japan Woodworker  (Catalog, Workshops)
	1731 Clement Ave.
	Alameda, CA  94501
	(800)-537-7820

	Nippon-4-Less         (Catalog)
	248 W Portola Ave.
	Los Altos, CA  
	(415)-917-0706

	Garrett-Wade Company, Inc. (Carrying less every year)
	161 Avenue of the Americas
	New York, NY  10013
	(800)-221-2942

19) Collecting old tools.

20) What books can I get to learn more?

	Bertorelli, Paul (Editor); "Fine WoodWorking on Hand Tools"; The
		Tauton Press; Newtown, CT; 1986; ISBN 0-918804-53-1.
	Dunbar, Michael; ``Restoring, Tuning, and Using Classic
		Woodworking Tools''; Sterling Publishing Co; New
		York; 1989; ISBN 0-8069-6670-X.
	Hampton, C. W. and E. Clifford; "Planecraft", ?, 1911,
		ISBN ?
	Hoadley, R. Bruce; ``Understanding Wood, A Craftsman's Guide to
		Wood Technology''; The Tauton Press; Newtown, CT; 1980;
		ISBN 0-918804-05-1.
	Jones, Bernard; ``The Complete Woodworker''; Ten Speed Press;
		ISBN 0-89815-022-1.
	Jones, Bernard; ``The Practical Woodworker''; Ten Speed Press;
		ISBN 0-89815-106-6.
	Korn, Peter; ``Working with Wood, The Basics of Craftsmanship'';
		The Tauton Press; Newtown, CT; 1993; ISBN 1-56158-041-4.
	Salaman, R. A.; ``Dictionary of Woodworking Tools''; The Tauton Press;
		Newtown, CT; ISBN 0-942391-51-9
	Spielman, Patrick; ``Sharpening Basics''; Sterling Publishing Co.,
		New York, NY; ISBN 0-8069-7226-2

21) What magazines are oriented towards hand tools?

	Fine Tool Journal
	P.O. Box 4001
	Pittsford, VT, 05763
	Phone: (800) 248-8114
	Subscription Cost: $20/yr, $36/2-yr (as of August 1994)

	The Catalog Of American Wooden Planes
	46 Western Ave
	Sherborn, MA  01770
	Subscription Cost: $16

22) Tidbits

	Some of the highly regarded Woodworking Schools are :

		North Bennet Street School
		39 North Bennet Street
		Boston, MA, 02113

23) Tool Collecting Organizations

	The following was submitted by Tom Dugan.  Thanks Tom!

	One of the best ways of collecting old tools is to find other
	collectors in your area. There are several national and regional
	organizations dedicated to the preservation of vintage tools.

	The following is copied from the 1993-1994 Early American Industries
	Association list of national and local organizations. This list was
	compiled by EAIA members Dave Thompson and Steve Scruggs. Any typos
	are mine (TD) alone.

	Listed is the organization, its acronym, and a contact for membership
	info.  Entries will also have other pertinent info when available.

	National Organizations

		EARLY AMERICAN INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION
		c/o John S. Watson, Treas.
		PO Box 2128,    E.S.P. Station
		Albany, NY, 12220.
		Dues: $25/yr
		Publications: "Chronicle" and "Shavings"

		ARTISTS-BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATION OF NORTH AMERICA (ABANA)
		Exec. Sec. Janelle Gilbert Franklin
		P.O. Box 1181
		Nashville TN 47448
		Dues: $35/yr
		Publication: "The Anvil's Ring"

		HAND TOOL PRESERVATION ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA (HTPA)
		Sec.; Frank J Ham
		21 Adeney Ave.
		KEW Victoria Australia
		Dues: $22.50/yr Australian
		Publication: "The Tool Chest"

		MID-WEST TOOL COLLECTOR'S ASSOCIATION (MWTCA)
		Bill Rigler
		RR2 Box 152
		Wartrace, TN, 37183
		Dues: $15/yr
		Publication: "The Gristmill"

		SOCIETY OF WORKERS IN EARLY ARTS AND TRADES (SWEAT)
		"Wordwright"; Fred H. Bair, Jr.
		606 Lake Lena Blvd.
		Auburndale, FL 33823
		Dues: $8/yr for US residents, $12/yr out of US
		Publication: "The Rag"

		THE TOOL GROUP OF CANADA
		Peter Wood
		7 Tottenham Rd.
		Don Mills, ONT Canada M3C2J3
		Dues:  $20/yr (not clear if this is $20 CN or US)
		Publication: "Yesterday's Tools"

		THE TOOL AND TRADES HISTORICAL SOCIETY (TATHS, of BRITAIN)
		The Administrator
		60 Swanley Lane
		Kent BR8 7JG  UK
		Dues:  $42 (airmail add $8) (UK readers - sorry I don't
			know the UK dues.)
		Publications: "Newsletter" (quar.) and "Tools and Trades" (ann.)

		TIMBER FRAMERS GUILD OF NORTH AMERICA
		Pres.; Scott Murray
		PO Box 1046
		Keene, NH 03431
		Dues: $60/60
		Publication: "Timber Framing"

	Regional and Local Organizations

		ANTIQUE TOOLS AND TRADES IN CONNECTICUT (ATTIC)
		Membership; Robert Dunn
		34 Thomas Ave.
		Uncasville, CT 06382
		Dues: $5/yr
		Publication: "The ATTIC Tool Chest"

		CENTURY MUSEUM VILLAGE & COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION
		Sec/Treas; Asa Beckwith
		RD3 Box 178 RT 44
		Pleasant Valley, NY  12569
		Dues: $7/yr

		COLLECTORS OF RARE AND FAMILIAR TOOLS SOCIETY (CRAFTS)
			OF NEW JERSEY
		Membership; Helen Whelan
		38 Colony Court
		Murray Hill NJ  07974
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: "The Tool Shed"

		EARLY TRADES & CRAFTS SOCIETY (ETC)
		Roland Cortelyou
		115 Daly Rd.
		Elwood, NY 11731
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: "Good Tidings, Etc."

		HUDSON VALLEY OLD TIME POWER ASSOCATION, INC
		Dick Valinski
		72 Derrick Dr.
		Fishkill, NY  12524
		Dues: $5/yr
		Publication: Newsletter

		LONG ISLAND ANTIQUE TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (LIATCA)
		Pres; Bill Hermanek
		31 Wildwood Lane
		Smithtown, NY  11787
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: Newsletter

		NEW ENGLAND TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (NETCA)
		Ed & Sec/Treas; Shirley Whitney
		303 Fisher Rd.
		Fitchburg, MA  01420
		Dues: $5/yr
		Publications: "NETCA News" & "NETCA Scrapbook"

		OHIO TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (OTCA)
		sec/treas; George E. Woodard
		PO Box 261
		London, OH  43140
		Dues: $12/yr
		Publication: "Ohio Tool Box"

		PACIFIC NORTHWEST TOOL COLLECTORS (PNTC)
		Sec; Jim Conrad
		2132 N.E. 81st
		Seattle, WA  98115
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: "Ye Olde Tool Chest"

		POTOMAC ANTIQUE TOOLS AND INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION (PATINA)
		sec/treas; John Cox
		6802 Nesbitt Pl.
		McLean, VA  22101
		Dues: $12/yr
		Publication: "PATINAgram"

		PRESERVING ARTS & SKILLS OF THE TRADES (PAST)
		membership; Bob Valich
		4329 Mayette Ave.
		Santa Rosa, CA  95405
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: "Tool Talk & Gazette"

		ROCKY MOUNT TOOL COLLECTORS (RMTC)
		sec/ed; Cliff Fales
		1435 S. Urban Way
		Lakewood, CO  80228
		Dues: $15/yr
		Publication: "Shavings, Sawdust, & Splinters"

		SOUTHWEST TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (SWTCA)
		Pres; Bill McDougall
		4020 Grande Dr. NW
		Albuquerque, NM  87107
		Dues: $12/yr
		Publication: SWTCA Newsletter

		THREE RIVERS TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (TRTC)
		pres; Bob Kendra
		39 South Rolling Hills
		Irwin, PA 15642
		Dues: $5/yr

		WESTERN NEW YORK ANTIQUE TOOL COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION (WNYATCA)
		pres; Frank Kosmerl
		432 Hollybrook Dr.
		Rochester, NY  14623
		Dues: $10/yr
		Publication: "Talking Tools"

-- 
					Ken Smith

- From there to here, from here to	internet: [email-masked]
  there, funny things are everywhere.	bitnet: kensmith%cs.buffalo.edu@ubvm